Q The Tailor Blog: That is a beautiful shirt!

Q The Tailor Blog: That is a beautiful shirt!: A ready-to-wear shirt is convenient and can look great, but the reason dress shirt tailors are still in business, and even becoming more ...

DO YOU KNOW YOUR SUPER 100'S FROM YOUR SUPER 150'S

If you take a look in one of your suit jackets you may notice that it has a Super grading on the label, for example Super 100’s or Super 110’s. Understanding this fabric labeling could mean the difference between buying a suit that lasts one year to buying a suit that lasts four years! The International Wool Textile Organization has coded fabric quality using the”Super X” description to ensure that people can make informed decisions when making purchases. The “Super” coding can only be used to describe fabrics made from at least 95% new wool. In some cases this wool may be mixed with other rarer fabrics such as Mohair and Cashmere as well as up to 5% of non-wool yarn. The “X” value is then determined by, and must comply with, the Maximum Fiber Diameter (MFD). For example a Super 100’s MFD is 18.75 microns compared to a Super 150’s MFD of 16.25 microns. “Understanding this fabric labeling could mean the difference between buying a suit that lasts one year to buying a suit that lasts four years!” So what does this mean? Well, the higher the Super Grade the finer the cloth making it feel more luxurious and typically more expensive! A Super 150’s is gorgeous to the touch and has an unmistakably silky look, but it also has its drawbacks. The finer the fabric, the less durable it becomes, so unless you wish to part with significant amounts of money on a regular basis, my advice would be to drop down a few grades! I would typical recommend a Super 100’s cloth from one of the established merchants such as Scabal, Holland & Sherry, and Dormeuil. AUTHOR: David Brooke:

The Bespoke Suit

The Bespoke Suit:

These are custom made by a tailor from a pattern created entirely from the client’s measurements, giving the best-fit and free choice of fabric. Some of the most expensive suits in the world are painstakingly hand made by an increasingly scarce breed of extremely skilled tailors.

These tailors know how to make suits that hide physical flaws and highlight attributes, without sacrificing comfort. Machine use is minimal, and each and every nuance of a client’s spoken and unspoken needs are met and often exceeded. Brioni, Attolini, Kiton, Luigi Borelli and Caraceni are some of the best known names in Italian bespoke suits. Some of the world’s most expensive suits are the Kiton K50s exclusively tailored by Senor D’Orsi, one of the finest tailors in the world. He makes not more than 50 suits in a year, each costing up to 50,000 USD. The fabrics used on a bespoke suit are usually the best, mostly worsted wool for business suits. These fabrics are used in the counts of 80′s and 90′s, or super 100′s, super 150′s and higher. The counts in the range of 80′s and 90′s also feel great and usually last longer than higher counts made at even the best clothing manufacturers. For those who can afford it, a bespoke suit made in the super 150′s fabric can be an absolute asset. It feels fabulously comfortable to wear and looks even better.

EASY GUIDE FOR REFRESHING YOUR WARDROBE

EASY GUIDE FOR REFRESHING YOUR WARDROBE
  Keeping your image polished and up-to date is an important
part of being a professional. You can maintain a fantastic wardrobe
without it becoming a hassle with this easy 90/10 system.
Every 90 days, go through your business wardrobe. Look
at every piece and evaluate it based on fabric quality and
coloring, fit, and general appearance. Take the bottom 10
percent, and donate it to a charity. (If there is one in your
area, consider a charity which helps provide interview
clothes to job seekers.)
Next, replace the discarded 10 percent of your wardrobe
with a garment which is slightly better quality than your
best pieces of clothing. Rather than simply adding more
pieces of clothing to your closet, you're improving your
wardrobe with each clothing investment.
This 90/10 system doesn't require huge, expensive
shopping trips or a large time commitment. Instead, you
gradually build up a wardrobe that is not only professional looking and current but includes clothing that is of better
quality than you're used to. There's no easier image boost
than an improvement in your wardrobe.

Welcome Back Wide-Legged Pants!

Move over, skinnies…

By Dana Lynch

  After being in the shadows of slim leg and skinny pants for several years, wide leg pants are back in fashion for spring/summer 2015! Here are just a few reasons you should be happy they’re finally in style again.

Figure Flattering

Clothing is all about illusion, and flared or wide-legged pants can create the illusion of a proportional silhouette. If you have a large bust or wide shoulders, wide-legged pants balance your figure. Additionally, if you have athletic legs or a pear shaped figure, they provide a little extra room in the thighs. And best of all…wide-legged and flared pants worn with platforms or wedges can make your legs look a mile long!

Modern Styling

The key to making these pants work is to keep things somewhat slim up top…wide and flowy over wide and flowy isn’t a flattering look for anyone! Great pairings include a peplum top that defines your waist and makes your legs look even longer or a beautiful tailored, button-up blouse tucked in with an interesting belt that brings attention to your tiny waist. Other flattering options include a boxy crop top with high waisted pants or a hip-length knit top/sweater worn on the outside of your pants, lengthening a shorter waist. Unless you’re extra tall, wide-legged pants are most flattering worn with heels! Be sure to have pants hemmed no more than ½ inch off the floor.

Fit is Fundamental

Be diligent about fit! If your legs are slim, you may need to have the upper portion of the pant leg taken in so you’re not drowning in fabric. Women with thicker thighs may need to go up a size for the best look; you want a little ease in the style. Especially with wider-leg styles, make sure the pants fit in the derrière. That way it doesn’t look like you’re wearing pants that are just too big.

While slim leg pants aren’t going anywhere, follow these tips and have fun with this fresh style in your closet!

The Shirt Monogram

The Shirt Monogram

     When Laundry was first sent out of the home, the monogram was used to authenticate ownership.In the heyday of men's fashion, monogrammed braces, initialed belt buckles, and embroidered pocket handkerchiefs were popular gifts from grooms to ushers, while regarded as tokens of affection from wives and girl friends. 

       

Today , some men consider the display of one's initials somewhat pretentious, while others appreciate it as a sign of individuality and quality.

      Since the dress shirt was considered underwear until well into the  late 1930s, most monograms were sequestered from view, either on the bottom of the shirt's tail or beneath the suits vest. As the vest began to disappear and men began to remove their jackets in public, this little eye-cue began to acquire its own cachet. 

     Discretion is paramount to good taste, and large or conspicuously placed initials are indiscreet. Displaying one's monogram on a collar  or full name on the cuffs clearly declares the perpetrator;s lack of savoir faire.
Less is more.
Q The Tailor

(Dress the Man Alan Flusser)

Take Care Of Those Suits!

It is often said and believed that dry cleaning your suits ruin them. The truth of the matter is you should not be taking them to the cleaners every other week. The Lack of suit rotation is the bigger problem!

The second problem is to  often the suits are not well made from the start. Bad interlinings (the guts of the suit) and synthetic fabrics; (polyesters and rayon's) will not retain shape during multiple cleaning processes. The synthetic fabrics retain odor and needs more maintenance. Natural fabrics breathe and if hung on a GOOD suit hanger will air out and refresh itself. A good brushing and waiting a day before putting the suit back into the rotation is best. 

Q The Tailor