Q The Tailor Blog

DO YOU KNOW YOUR SUPER 100'S FROM YOUR SUPER 150'S

If you take a look in one of your suit jackets you may notice that it has a Super grading on the label, for example Super 100’s or Super 110’s. Understanding this fabric labeling could mean the difference between buying a suit that lasts one year to buying a suit that lasts four years! The International Wool Textile Organization has coded fabric quality using the”Super X” description to ensure that people can make informed decisions when making purchases. The “Super” coding can only be used to describe fabrics made from at least 95% new wool. In some cases this wool may be mixed with other rarer fabrics such as Mohair and Cashmere as well as up to 5% of non-wool yarn. The “X” value is then determined by, and must comply with, the Maximum Fiber Diameter (MFD). For example a Super 100’s MFD is 18.75 microns compared to a Super 150’s MFD of 16.25 microns. “Understanding this fabric labeling could mean the difference between buying a suit that lasts one year to buying a suit that lasts four years!” So what does this mean? Well, the higher the Super Grade the finer the cloth making it feel more luxurious and typically more expensive! A Super 150’s is gorgeous to the touch and has an unmistakably silky look, but it also has its drawbacks. The finer the fabric, the less durable it becomes, so unless you wish to part with significant amounts of money on a regular basis, my advice would be to drop down a few grades! I would typical recommend a Super 100’s cloth from one of the established merchants such as Scabal, Holland & Sherry, and Dormeuil. AUTHOR: David Brooke: