Q The Tailor Blog: Knickerbockers For 2017?

Q The Tailor Blog: Knickerbockers For 2017?: Knickerbockers Knickerbockers are men’s breeches or baggy-kneed  trousers  especially well-liked in the early  twentieth century  USA. ...

Knickerbockers For 2017?

Knickerbockers

Knickerbockers are men’s breeches or baggy-kneed trousers especially well-liked in the early twentieth century USA. Golfer’s plus twos and plus fours wear breeches of this type. Before World War II, skiers frequently wore knickerbockers also typically ankle-length.

Until after World War I, in several Anglophone countries, boys habitually wore short pants in summer and knickerbockers or “knickers” or “knee pants” in winter season. At the beginning of teenage years, they graduated to long trousers. In that era, the changeover to “long pants” was a major practice of passage.

For example, the classic song Blues in the Night by Johnny Mercer: “My mammy done told me, when I was in knee-pants, my mammy done told me, son…”

Baseball players are dressed in a stylized form of knickerbockers, even though the pants have become less baggy in modern decades and some contemporary ballplayers opt to pull the trousers seal to the ankles. The white trousers worn by American football officials are knickerbockers, and while they have become less baggy, they are still worn ending shortly below the knee. In topical years, the NFL has equipped its official with long trousers rather than knickers in cold weather conditions.

UTILIZE IN SPORTS ACCOMPLISHMENTS

Knickerbockers have been well-accepted in additional sporting endeavors, particularly golf, rock climbing, cross-country skiing and bicycling.

Certainly in cycling, they were standard clothing for almost hundred years, with the majority of archival photos of cyclists in the period before World War I showing men wearing knickerbockers tucked into long socks. They stay behind fairly popular in Britain where they were called “breeks” or “trews” in the years between World War I and World War II, but ultimately were concealed in attractiveness by racing tights, even between the enormous majorities of cyclists who never raced.

Invariably referred to as “knickers” in the US, where the British definition of that term is unidentified, they lived on as a just-past-the-knee modification of racing tights reserved for colder-weather riding.

During the period of beginning of the year 1980s, media attention in the then-Lady Diana Spencer brought a epigrammatic commercial renewal of the look in women’s and unisex fashion both in the places Europe and North America which were predominantly along with the “town and country”, “New Romantic” and “preppie” sets. However, by 1984 the style had diminished as more top-heavy styles with snug pants rendered the style obsolete.

Q The Tailor Blog: ARE TAILORED CLOTHING SALES REALLY DECLINING OR IS...

Q The Tailor Blog: ARE TAILORED CLOTHING SALES REALLY DECLINING OR IS...: ARE TAILORED CLOTHING SALES REALLY DECLINING OR IS THE BUSINESS SIMPLY MOVING TO CUSTOM-MTM?  by  MR Magazine David Rubenstein from Ru...

ARE TAILORED CLOTHING SALES REALLY DECLINING OR IS THE BUSINESS SIMPLY MOVING TO CUSTOM-MTM?

 by MR Magazine

David Rubenstein from Rubenstein's in New Orleans asks:

  Have there been any recent studies comparing “rack clothing” business to custom/MTM? Our custom business is really growing since we’ve been promoting it. I also see that young merchants who’ve recently started in the clothing business are really pushing custom. During the MRket show in NYC, the “custom designer” group showed at the Warwick. These are young entrepreneurs who go door to door. Then there is Tom James, already surpassing $500 million in sales and aiming for a $1 billion in the next few years.

So I’m curious if the clothing business is really shrinking or just moving to custom? And to what extent are traditional retailers losing business to this trend? We find these new young customers are NOT brand loyal: they don’t know brand names but only the names of their custom sales associates. These customers like the way they look in a fitted suit but don’t want to see themselves coming and going. They know what they want their suit to look like and will go to the person who can execute their vision. Once they find that person who can understand and fit them, they’re loyal. They don’t want to go through re-measuring at another store.

I also find that, since computers, there are more sales associates on the road who have started carrying custom clothing lines. Europe and the Far East have introduced an incredible number of manufacturers who can make a custom suit in a week (less time than doing a suit in a store tailor shop). This also reduces in-store alteration costs.

I’d love to hear what others clothing industry execs have to say about this trend.

Q The Tailor Blog: Do you know your shirt fabrics?

Q The Tailor Blog: Do you know your shirt fabrics?: Dress Shirt Fabrics Overview Here we provide the definitive overview of the different types of fabrics commonly used in dress shirt...

Do you know your shirt fabrics?

Dress Shirt Fabrics Overview

Here we provide the definitive overview of the different types of fabrics commonly used in dress shirts.  By understanding what the different weaves mean for a fabric you can be sure to find the ideal dress shirt fabric for your needs.

Broadcloth

Broadcloth—often referred to as poplin–is a tightly woven fabric with a very simple over-under weave and very little sheen, which makes it nice and professional. Broadcloths are great for guys looking for as little texture as possible in their fabrics. They are generally a thinner, lighter fabric. Particularly, white broadcloth fabrics can be slightly transparent. Broadcloths generally wear the smoothest out of all weaves thanks to their lack of texture, but can also be the most prone to wrinkling.
Learn more about broadcloth fabrics here or browse our selection of broadcloth fabrics here.

Broadcloth Dress Shirt Fabric

Twill

Twill fabrics are easily recognizable because they will show diagonal weave or texture. The diagonal effect can range from very fine, subtle twills to much larger Imperial or Cavalry twills. Twills will almost always have a bit of shine, though the degree can depend on the weave, color, and cotton used. Twill is an extremely tight weave,  that can come in extremely high thread counts, some of which might be mistaken for silk. Because of the diagonal texture twill is a bit softer than broadcloth and will drape more easily. Twill won’t give you the same “crisp” look that freshly pressed broadcloth can, but it’s relatively easy to iron and resistant to wrinkles.
Learn more about twill fabrics here or browse our selection of twill fabrics here.

Twill Dress Shirt Fabric

Pinpoint Oxford

Pinpoint (also referred to as pinpoint oxford) has the same weave as oxford cloth, although it uses a finer yarn and tighter weave. It is more formal than oxford cloth, but less formal than broadcloth or twill. Think of them as great everyday work shirts, but not necessarily the first recommendation for special events. Pinpoint fabrics are generally not transparent and are slightly heavier and thicker than broadcloths. Because of their heavier construction, pinpoints are fairly durable fabrics. Opt for a twill or broadcloth if you’re looking for a formal shirt.
Learn more about pinpoint fabrics here or  browse our selection of pinpoint fabrics here.

Pinpoint Dress Shirt Fabric

Chambray

Chambray is a plain weave fabric.  That means it has a similar construction to broadcloth, though it is generally made with heavier yarns for a more relaxed or workwear appeal. Generally there will be white threads running in the weft/width direction such that the fabric has an inconsistent color to it.  This could be compared to an end-on-end, though chambray is generally much heavier and more appropriate for casual wear than dress.

Chambray Fabric

Denim

We all know denim as the fabric of our jeans.  But construction wise, denim is a twill fabric. A sturdy, possibly coarser twill often dyed with indigo.  For the most part though, when it comes to denim shirting, you’re mostly going to find much softer, lighter versions of the fabric than what your jeans are made of.  Denim shirting can come in many forms but generally have a different color on the inside than the outside.

Denim Shirt Fabric

Dobby

Dobby (which is very similar to Jacquard, although technically different) can vary widely. Some versions are quite similar to broadcloth in terms of thickness and weight, while others can be thicker or woven to almost look like twill. Many dobby fabrics have stripes woven into them, although some are solid colors. The solid colors tend to have a faint stripe or dotted patterns woven in the same color as the base cloth.
Learn more about dobby fabrics here or browse our dobby fabrics here.

Dobby Dress Shirt Fabric

End-on-End

End-on-end broadcloths are a very popular type of dress shirt fabric with a distinct contrast coloring. Woven with colored thread in the warp and white thread in the weft, it looks like a true solid from a distance, but has more texture when seen from up close. Typically a lighter weight fabric, it’s a great choice for those living in warmer climates.

End on End Dress Shirt Fabric

Flannel

A fall/winter favorite. Flannels are warm, fuzzy fabrics that are most often brushed twill or brushed poplin fabrics. While they’re most regularly 100% cotton, they sometimes can come in cotton/wool, and even cotton/cashmere blends for added warmth. Usually made in thicker weaves, these are decidedly casual fabrics that are great for cold weather.

Flannel Dress Shirt Fabric

Melange

Melange fabrics can come in every sort of weave–poplin, twill, royal oxford, etc–and are woven using multi-colored yarns. Each yarn will be dyed this way, most often with 2-3 subtlety different hues.  These unique yarns can help achieve a heathered, intentionally inconsistent, somewhat organic look. Melange fabrics are different than Mouline fabrics, as Mouline fabrics are made from consistent, one-color yarns that are twisted together to achieve a multi-color look.

Melange Dress Shirt Fabric

Oxford Cloth

Oxford Cloth is very similar to pinpoint oxford, except it uses a slightly heavier thread and looser weave. It has a slightly rougher texture but is more durable than most fabrics. It’s composed of a symmetrical basketweave where one yarn may cross two yarns. Originally developed for sportswear, so it’s the least dressy, and (in some circles) not considered appropriate for office or formal wear. Oxford cloth has always been a staple in traditional American button down polo shirts. It can be worn slightly wrinkled straight from the dryer and still look great.
Learn more about oxford cloth here or browse our selection of oxford cloth here.

Oxford Cloth Shirt Fabric

Poplin

Poplin is so similar to Broadcloth that we decided not to distinguish between the two in our fabric descriptions.  For all practical purposes you can equate the two. They are both a plain weave fabric that is going to be quite thin, smooth and flat. That said, technically Poplin is different than Broadcloth in that Poplins can have different weight yarns in the warp and weft while broadcloths will have a a symmetrical construction.  For example, broadcloths could be 100/2×100/2 (meaning 100s two-ply in the warp and weft) while a poplin could be 100/2×60/1 (meaning 100s two-ply in the warp and 60s single-ply in the weft).

Poplin Dress Shirt Fabric

Royal Oxford

Royal Oxford is what we call a “pretty fabric”. Although the name is similar, it is not at all similar to pinpoint oxford or oxford cloth. It is a dressy fabric with a distinctive shine and texture. With a more prominent weave than broadcloth or pinpoint, it’s ideal for those interested in a dress or formal shirt with visible texture.
Learn more about royal oxford fabrics here or browse our selection of royal oxford fabrics here.

Royal Oxford Dress Shirt Fabric

Herringbone

Herringbone shirts are popular, more textured shirts for both dress and casual wear. Herringbone is essentially a twill that is mirrored when woven to create the sort of chevron, “V-shaped” look. The fabric’s name comes from its resemblance to the bones of a herring fish.

Seersucker

Seersucker is a fabric primarily used to make shirt for warm weather, and is is known for its distinctive, puckered appearance. This puckered look is created in the finishing of the fabric, after it’s woven, and helps to promote air flow while being worn. This helps make seersucker very comfortable in the summer. While seersucker fabrics can come in any color or pattern, blue striped seersucker is most popular.

Linen

Linen fabrics are incredibly breathable and, like seersucker, typically made to be worn in hot climates. Linen is made from fiber of the flax plant, and can be very labor intensive to produce. Typically linen will be more loosely woven and sheer than most cotton shirts, and has a very unique dry hand to it that is unlike cotton. Linen also tends to wrinkle more easily than cotton and generally feels much more relaxed because of this. While we love the look and feel of linen, some people prefer cotton/linen blended shirts as you can achieve much of the coolness of a linen shirt while reducing the wrinkling.

Egyptian, Sea Island, and American Pima Cotton

When you hear about Egyptian, Sea Island, or American Pima cotton you should know that this is not referring to the type of weave, but to the type of cotton used to make the weave. For practical purposes, Pima cotton, Sea Island and Egyptian cotton are all cottons derived from originally the same plant: Gossypium Barbadense. These are more desirable cotton because they are typically “extra-long staple length” cottons (length greater than 1 3/8″), which allows them to be spun into finer, stronger yarns.

All three of these cottons are typically regarded as high-end, luxury raw goods. Egyptian and American Pima will be the most readily available, while Sea Island cotton is well-known for being incredibly rare. Often, American Pima will be woven into fabrics of a slightly lower quality than Egyptian as it is not as clean of a fiber, despite having similar staple lengths.

There is also a famous, rare form of Egyptian cotton called “Giza 45″ that is specially used for some of the world’s finest shirting fabrics–notably Thomas Mason Goldline fabrics. This is a highly acclaimed form of cotton found in a particular portion of the Nile Delta, that can be woven to produce incredibly fine yet strong yarns. Fabric made from Giza 45 cotton tends not to degrade over time as much as other Egyptian or American Pima cottons.

Accounting for just .0004% of the cotton supply available, Sea Island Cotton is the rarest in the world. What makes Sea Island Cotton so desirable is it’s unique combination of characteristics: extra long staple length, remarkable fiber strength, incredibly uniform growth, and a significant brightness in color.

While other high-end shirting cottons like Egyptian cotton and American Pima can boast extra-long staple length above 1 3/8″, it’s Sea Island Cotton’s durability, consistency, vibrant color, and silky luster that makes it different from these. The uniformity, strength, and “hairlessness” of the fiber allows fabric woven from it to last an incredible long time, and actually become smoother each time they’re laundered.

The best Sea Island Cotton comes from Barbados because incredibly uniform, humid climate of the island allows for the cotton plants to grow in a consistent way throughout the year. The cotton in Barbados is also picked by hand to ensure the highest quality levels.

Making matters a bit confusing, there are trademarks filed around the names “Sea Island” and “Supima”. Keep an eye out for “Certified Sea Island Cotton” vs. “Sea Island Quality”, as only the former will be authentic and it’s something we often see on the market.

Learn more about Sea Island Cotton dress shirts or browse our selection of Sea Island Cotton fabrics here.

Egyptian Cotton Dress Shirt Fabric

Thread Count

If everything else is the same (weave, ply, mill, and type of cotton), higher thread count means a smoother, silkier, more expensive fabric. Thread count is often referred to with a number like 50s, 80s, 100s, 120s, 140s, 170s, etc up to 330s.  These numbers refer to the yarn size, but keep in mind that typically a thread count above 100 will imply a 2-ply fabric.

Though there are some exceptions when extremely fine single ply yarns are used, these higher number thread counts will be two yarns twisted together. For example, 120’s thread count means that two 60’s yarns are twisted together. Generally this fabric will be more durable than a 60’s single ply, but it won’t necessarily be smoother. 140’s thread counts are typically two 70’s yarns twisted together. And so on and so forth

While thread count can be an indicator of quality, remember that ply, mill, and quality of cotton will have just as much to do with how luxurious the fabric is.

Two Ply vs Single Ply

Ply is how many yarns are twisted together to make a single thread. Shirting fabrics are most often two-ply or single ply. Two-ply means that two yarns are twisted together to make a single thread that is then woven into the fabric. (Note that this is not at all like two-ply toilet paper!). Two-ply fabrics are generally superior to single-ply fabrics in their durability. Three-ply fabrics are rare, but can be found occasionally.

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WHY MERINO WOOL IS THE BEST FOR MEN’S SUITS

      It is no accident or coincidence that all the top or high end manufacturers and brands of men’s suits in the world select Merino wool from which to make most if not all of their men’s suits.   Visit the tailors located on the world famous Savile Row in London, and check out their men’s suit ranges. Invariably you will find that most of their products on offer are made from Merino wool. Also why for the past 200 to 300 years have suits made from Merino wool been the first choice of kings, presidents, emperors and celebrities? 

WHY MERINO WOOL IS THE PREFERRED FIBRE In addition to all the many natural properties and inherent benefits of wool already described, and coupled with wool’s green credentials of being natural, renewable and biodegradable, there are a number of other key reasons why Merino wool is the best fibre for making men’s suits, and hence why it is the first choice for leading luxury men’s suiting brands and their customers alike. Heritage: For the discerning consumer, heritage is an important factor. It offers a sense of trust, and reliability, and the highest quality of craftsmanship which has been developed during many years. This is true for both the manufacturer or brand and the fibre used. The 

Australian Merino wool industry has a very long heritage, stretching more than 200 years, whereas synthetic fibres only arrived on the scene en masse in the 1960s. During those 200 years, Australian farmers continuously worked, and continue to this day, to further improve both the quality and fineness of the wool they produce. As a result, Australian Merino wool is without doubt the best fibre to make a men’s suit from. 

Tailorability: This has a big influence on the aesthetic appeal and comfort of a suit. Even the best tailors in the world can try to make a suit look good, but they will invariably be limited by the properties and the characteristics of the fabric available. It’s rather like a chef who wants to create a beautiful and tasty dish to eat, but they also are always going to be limited by the type and quality of the ingredients available. When it comes to making or tailoring a man’s suit, every leading tailor will tell you that wool fabrics are without question the best and hence their favourite ingredient to work with. The reason why wool fabrics have the best tailorability properties is because of the ease that either temporary or permanent set can be induced in the fabric, its viscoelasticity, its resilience and its natural crimp. 

Colour: From a visual point of view, colour is of vital importance to the aesthetics of a suit. It is possible to produce a vast array of colours and hues, with great depth and intensity of shade. Because of wool’s chemical make-up, wool has a greater ability and capacity than synthetic fibres and other fibres to absorb dyestuffs. So the colour is not only confined to the surface, but colours the entire fibre. Wrinkle recovery: Although wool suits like all suits can suffer from wrinkling or creasing, quality suits made from wool have excellent wrinkle recovery properties compared to those of some other fibres. If they are lightly wrinkled in