Q The Tailor Blog: A CENTURY OF EXCELLENCE

Q The Tailor Blog: A CENTURY OF EXCELLENCE: OXXFORD CLOTHES SHARES SUCCESS SECRETS AND PLANS FOR THE NEXT 100 YEARS   While it might not be the most accessible custom suit out ther...

A CENTURY OF EXCELLENCE

OXXFORD CLOTHES SHARES SUCCESS SECRETS AND PLANS FOR THE NEXT 100 YEARS

 While it might not be the most accessible custom suit out there, there are few clothing brands with as compelling a story as Oxxford, now 100 years old. Their commitment to quality, luxury and American production sets them apart for legions of consumers, including United States presidents, Hollywood stars, prominent politicians, corporate CEOs and successful entrepreneurs. (Editor’s note: Stanley Marcus was a huge Oxxford fan.) The common denominator for the past 100 years: men wear Oxxford because they want the very best.

Here, we speak with Oxxford’s president Bob Denton and sales director Chris Brueckner about how they hit this 100-year milestone, and how they plan to approach the next century.

Q: To what do you attribute the longevity of this highly esteemed luxury brand?

A: Oxxford Clothes’ mission has always been “to create a garment by which all others will be judged.” We have remained true to that mission. We are arguably the only production garment in the United States that is totally made by hand. For example, we allow the artisans who hand-pad our lapels 30 minutes to complete each lapel with approximately 1,000 hand stitches. One person can complete only about seven garments per day. There are 179 steps in the production of an Oxxford suit, which takes approximately 28 hours of labor.

The brand’s longevity is a combination of a couple of things. There is always demand for the best. When Oxxford started, their goal was to make a superior suit. Both retailers and their customers realized there was a difference in an Oxxford garment and it became what everyone measured their tailored clothing against.

The reality today is that many guys have switched to designer and global brands, a more casual style of dress and (lately) made-to-measure and direct-to-consumer clothing. While these trends have been the demise of many tailored clothing companies, Oxxford has been able to adapt to changes, thanks to supportive ownership and a continuing commitment to quality.

Our success can be attributed to maintaining quality, flexibility and growing our consumer base. While our core customer is older, we’re getting lots of interest from younger guys. They’re interested in the “heritage” of the brand, the process of the make, and the customization possibilities. Most can’t do the “spend” yet, but these are our future customers. They want authentic clothing.

Q: So how do you attract younger guys who want Oxxford but can’t afford it?

A: Our social media campaign has dramatically helped raise awareness of Oxxford Clothes with a younger consumer. We have become an aspirational brand for the new generation of gentlemen that appreciates the heritage, artistry and quality of what we produce. Several years ago, an extension brand, Oxxford 1220, was introduced. It’s still a high-quality garment, made in our Chicago factory, but we eliminated some of the more meticulous, time-consuming processes. It changed our ready-to-wear business and did some harm where the end consumer thought he was buying the same Oxxford he had in the past.

All the handwork in an Oxxford garment serves a purpose: it is the only way to put permanent shape into a lapel and collar. And shaping the chest like we do, an Oxxford garment has a give that provides movement that a non-handmade garment cannot claim.

What we do best is make hand-made clothing. It’s who we are, part of our 100 years of success. (We still offer the 1220 product to a few accounts. It’s a great value, but we prefer to focus on our highest quality make.)

Q: How’s current business? What’s selling best?

A: We finished ahead of our forecast for 2016. While we are closely held and do not publicize our numbers, I can say that we remain profitable. We recognized the coming shift several years ago from ready-made clothing to the future demand for more custom and adjusted our production accordingly.

That move set us up to capitalize on the change that has in fact taken place. Ready-made is still an important part of our business: stores must have garments to show and use for fittings. But our production has shifted to mostly custom.

Q: What else do you have planned for this year?

A: For 2017, we won’t stray too far from our classic looks, but we’re focusing on more luxury fabrics in cashmere, and wool/silk blends. We’re reintroducing Escorial wool for both suits and jackets. We now offer more color in jackets and we have a strong presentation in blazer fabrics.

Our new models are slightly trimmer: one is our version of a “soft coat” with a lightweight make and details. The other has a slightly stronger shoulder and narrow waist for a more sartorial expression.

Q: So future growth will come from new product offerings and more custom?

A: Yes, we are growing both with our current retail partners and with new accounts. We have a unique story and product and will continue to focus on what we do best. We also expect to gain market share from competitors who are getting into the retail business and selling directly online, thereby competing with the stores that built up their business for them. I think retailers will be more likely to support brands that are not competing directly with them.

Q: How many wholesale accounts do you have? And why is there just one retail store?

A: We have approximately 90 active wholesale doors. Our flagship in New York is our only company store. Although it’s important for our brand image to have a retail presence in the city, our expertise is making the finest clothing in the world. We are manufacturers. We have a tremendous amount of talent with retail experience within our company; we’d rather use that talent to help our retail partners than to compete with them.

In Features by Karen Alberg Grossman January 23, 2017