Tailoring trends from Savile Row to mass market
Author: Leonie Barrie | 8 November 2011
While UK based mass-market tailoring firms are facing an offshore sourcing crisis as China's manufacturers focus on the domestic market and costs continue to rise elsewhere, 'Made in Britain' luxury tailored labels are enjoying global success. Speakers from Savile Row and the UK high street shared their thoughts and concerns at a recent ASBCI tailoring seminar, 'Suits you? Industry trends in contemporary tailoring.'
For Norwich-based supplier Wensum Tailoring, moving production to China in 2005 bought some initial advantages, especially in low cost labour. "In the early days we were welcomed by the Chinese with open arms...we were the rich uncles and they responded quickly and flexibly," says managing director Jaspal Calotier.
But that is all changing. Whereas China was exporting 70% of its tailored product to the EU, US and Japan, this has now plunged to 30%. And as Chinese consumers have become more aspirational, so domestic production has adapted to meet their needs.
This has driven up-front payments to guarantee production space and also given rise to quality issues as production is outsourced to anonymous, inferior factories and excessive reliance on overtime. Brands and retailers are losing control of the process, Calotier warns.
Furthermore the aspirations of Chinese parents are seeing children directed to the service, technology and automotive industries since "the garment industry is a long way down the pecking order of desirable occupations." The result is forcing up wages in the garment sector.
While the obvious step is to shift sourcing elsewhere, even countries such as Bangladesh are seeing labour shortages. This has contributed to an 87% jump in labour costs. India, meanwhile, has employment legislation issues and the economy "doesn't make it easy" for western businesses.
Combined with spiralling freight costs and fluctuations in global economies, any company still operating off-shore would be well advised to consider the alternatives, says Calotier.
Wensum is looking to bring its production capability back to the UK where it still has its production equipment. The allure of shorter lead times, better quality product, transparency in the supply-chain and the kudos of a 'made in England' label are driving its ambitions.
To this end, over a two to three year period it is looking at attracting its former workforce back and establishing an apprentice scheme.
Value for quality
According to Nathan Helfgott, managing director at men's tailoring and outerwear manufacturer AAK Limited: "Value for quality, not cheap, is the key driver in the retail world of tailoring."
As a supplier to Marks & Spencer, which sells more than 20% of all off-the-peg tailored suits in the UK, Helfgott said the retailer is at the forefront of innovation for the tailoring sector.
In 2001 it launched the first washable wool blend suit which was followed in 2004 by the first crease resistant, quick recover travel suit. More recently it has added the water repellent Stormwear suit to its range.
Recent increases in the price of raw materials, especially wool, have driven suit suppliers to experiment with new blends. The result is a resurgence in poly-viscose blends which have helped brands and retailers keep their price points low.
But Eddie Jones, UK nomination manager for interlinings producer Kufner Textil GmbH, also points out that: "As the quality of fabrics used to make some mass market suits gets worse the role of the interlining becomes ever more crucial."
As well as giving tailored garments their shape and stability, Kufner's interlinings, made from renewable, natural or recycled fibres, are beginning to add value to the physical appearance of clothing.
New on the market is the 'colour-up' visible interlining that is designed to be seen. It is available with a selection of pre-printed colourful designs or they can be printed with a bespoke design.
There is also X-Shield, an interlining that gives 99.99% shielding from the electromagnetic radiation associated with mobile phones. There are also technical, ultra light haute couture and outdoor interlinings.
Attention to detail
Innovation is also paramount at Savile Row tailor Huntsman, where an uncompromising attention to detail and "clothing excellence" have helped retain its position as one of Britain's best bespoke tailors.
Head cutter David Ward believes the future of Savile Row tailors depends on them being "cutting edge not Dickensian and dowdy."
To perpetuate the skills base and core values of tailoring, the Savile Row Bespoke Association was established in 2004 to protect and to develop the art of bespoke tailoring. It set up an academy to run two vocational tailoring apprenticeships in conjunction with London College of Fashion, where young tailors can learn their craft from the masters.
Ward believes this will help tailors succeed regardless of recessions by "maintaining the very high standards of craftsmanship that we are famous for."
For Italian men's wear tailor Uman, a focus on fit has helped turn its men's premium off-the-peg tailored clothing line into a commercial and hugely successful reality by focusing on fit.
Ed Gribbin, president of apparel fit expert Alvanon Inc, explained how the company helped Uman founder and chairman Umberto Angeloni by drawing on its database of over 300,000 3D consumer body scans and identified some 3,000 shapes from London, Milan and Paris that "matched" the target consumer profile.
From the average shape data Alvanon generated a 3D profile of the 'Uman' man and a physical 'fit' mannequin. The mannequin was such a powerful image that it became the centre piece of Uman's showroom in Milan and its stores around the world. Despite its premium price points Uman has grown "by triple digits in its first three years."
In addition to feedback from wearer focus groups, online forums and social networking sites to inform its design decisions, corporate clothing designer Incorporatewear is constantly looking for fabric innovations that could improve its garments.
"Such fabric innovations as nano, non-crease, multi-functional and easy care have had a massive impact on our designs," explained Paula Cannon, head of design and technical manager.
In particular the 'second skin dress' that emits scents, 'bamboo charcoal' fabrics that energise, 'light emitting textiles' for night and safety wear and 'integrated technology' textiles with audio and other systems embedded into garments are all finding applications in the corporate and workwear arena.
For Norwich-based supplier Wensum Tailoring, moving production to China in 2005 bought some initial advantages, especially in low cost labour. "In the early days we were welcomed by the Chinese with open arms...we were the rich uncles and they responded quickly and flexibly," says managing director Jaspal Calotier.
But that is all changing. Whereas China was exporting 70% of its tailored product to the EU, US and Japan, this has now plunged to 30%. And as Chinese consumers have become more aspirational, so domestic production has adapted to meet their needs.
This has driven up-front payments to guarantee production space and also given rise to quality issues as production is outsourced to anonymous, inferior factories and excessive reliance on overtime. Brands and retailers are losing control of the process, Calotier warns.
Furthermore the aspirations of Chinese parents are seeing children directed to the service, technology and automotive industries since "the garment industry is a long way down the pecking order of desirable occupations." The result is forcing up wages in the garment sector.
While the obvious step is to shift sourcing elsewhere, even countries such as Bangladesh are seeing labour shortages. This has contributed to an 87% jump in labour costs. India, meanwhile, has employment legislation issues and the economy "doesn't make it easy" for western businesses.
Combined with spiralling freight costs and fluctuations in global economies, any company still operating off-shore would be well advised to consider the alternatives, says Calotier.
Wensum is looking to bring its production capability back to the UK where it still has its production equipment. The allure of shorter lead times, better quality product, transparency in the supply-chain and the kudos of a 'made in England' label are driving its ambitions.
To this end, over a two to three year period it is looking at attracting its former workforce back and establishing an apprentice scheme.
Value for quality
According to Nathan Helfgott, managing director at men's tailoring and outerwear manufacturer AAK Limited: "Value for quality, not cheap, is the key driver in the retail world of tailoring."
As a supplier to Marks & Spencer, which sells more than 20% of all off-the-peg tailored suits in the UK, Helfgott said the retailer is at the forefront of innovation for the tailoring sector.
In 2001 it launched the first washable wool blend suit which was followed in 2004 by the first crease resistant, quick recover travel suit. More recently it has added the water repellent Stormwear suit to its range.
Recent increases in the price of raw materials, especially wool, have driven suit suppliers to experiment with new blends. The result is a resurgence in poly-viscose blends which have helped brands and retailers keep their price points low.
But Eddie Jones, UK nomination manager for interlinings producer Kufner Textil GmbH, also points out that: "As the quality of fabrics used to make some mass market suits gets worse the role of the interlining becomes ever more crucial."
As well as giving tailored garments their shape and stability, Kufner's interlinings, made from renewable, natural or recycled fibres, are beginning to add value to the physical appearance of clothing.
New on the market is the 'colour-up' visible interlining that is designed to be seen. It is available with a selection of pre-printed colourful designs or they can be printed with a bespoke design.
There is also X-Shield, an interlining that gives 99.99% shielding from the electromagnetic radiation associated with mobile phones. There are also technical, ultra light haute couture and outdoor interlinings.
Attention to detail
Innovation is also paramount at Savile Row tailor Huntsman, where an uncompromising attention to detail and "clothing excellence" have helped retain its position as one of Britain's best bespoke tailors.
Head cutter David Ward believes the future of Savile Row tailors depends on them being "cutting edge not Dickensian and dowdy."
To perpetuate the skills base and core values of tailoring, the Savile Row Bespoke Association was established in 2004 to protect and to develop the art of bespoke tailoring. It set up an academy to run two vocational tailoring apprenticeships in conjunction with London College of Fashion, where young tailors can learn their craft from the masters.
Ward believes this will help tailors succeed regardless of recessions by "maintaining the very high standards of craftsmanship that we are famous for."
For Italian men's wear tailor Uman, a focus on fit has helped turn its men's premium off-the-peg tailored clothing line into a commercial and hugely successful reality by focusing on fit.
Ed Gribbin, president of apparel fit expert Alvanon Inc, explained how the company helped Uman founder and chairman Umberto Angeloni by drawing on its database of over 300,000 3D consumer body scans and identified some 3,000 shapes from London, Milan and Paris that "matched" the target consumer profile.
From the average shape data Alvanon generated a 3D profile of the 'Uman' man and a physical 'fit' mannequin. The mannequin was such a powerful image that it became the centre piece of Uman's showroom in Milan and its stores around the world. Despite its premium price points Uman has grown "by triple digits in its first three years."
In addition to feedback from wearer focus groups, online forums and social networking sites to inform its design decisions, corporate clothing designer Incorporatewear is constantly looking for fabric innovations that could improve its garments.
"Such fabric innovations as nano, non-crease, multi-functional and easy care have had a massive impact on our designs," explained Paula Cannon, head of design and technical manager.
In particular the 'second skin dress' that emits scents, 'bamboo charcoal' fabrics that energise, 'light emitting textiles' for night and safety wear and 'integrated technology' textiles with audio and other systems embedded into garments are all finding applications in the corporate and workwear arena.
